Finland for some reason produces some brilliant watchmaking talent, maybe it's the water or perhaps the vodka, Whatever the reason, Kippis! We are better off for it. Stepan has forged his path for years now in Helsinki, where he returned to after a stint in Switzerland honing his skills. His design and watchmaking skills are are bit off the beaten path and, as his hashtag proudly states #notforeveryone, the watches he creates in small quantities, are polarizing. He wouldn't have it any other way. One typically loves his work or doesn't. The evolution of the Korona case and his use of interesting dial materials and colors make for strong design direction. This year he showed his own design inhouse caliber, named the Moonment. Utilizing the brilliant Andreas Strehler's constructor and movement production facilities, he created a fully integrated Fiber Optic Moonphase within the caliber. The coolest execution of a moonphase complication I've ever seen. It needs some fine tuning in my opinion, and as the piece shown was very much a prototype, I'm sure the final product will be stunning. The balance wheel is also placed on the dial side, as the back of the caliber is reserved solely for the dual moons that make the rotation around the diameter once every 57 days. As they arrive behind the fiber optic disc, they cast a shadow giving a very realistic look to the moon. Of course Stepan's stylised "Man in the Moon" face is featured on the moon, for his little twist. Held up to a light source from behind, gives one a very bright moon! My understanding is that some form of Luminous material will be implemented in the moon. The other stunning piece shown was a magenta colored guilloche dial for a K1 Moonpase piece.
SUF Helsinki, is Stepan's second brand if you will and the enormous success of the brilliant Vetehinen model, a 300m dive watch from 2 years ago, has spawned several variations over the past 2 years. The dials are again from Comblemine in Switzerland, Kari Voutilainen's dial company. Galvanic green is the latest offer and it's a close second to my personal favourite, the original blue dial Vetehinen. Earlier this year during SIHH, Stepan released a collaboration purple dialed Vetehinen, with a neat machine engraved bezel designed by the master tatoo artist and watch collector from London, Mo Coppoletta. These he sold out during SIHH and although I didn't attend, I was able to secure the last three unspoken for pieces, in the series of 26 owing to some frantic emails and WhatsApp messages from me during SIHH.
After lunch of the usual kalbsbratwurst & rosti with Fiona & Michael Kruger, John McGonigle & Graeme Haughton I met up with Torsti Laine. Having missed him last year due to a scheduling issue, I was keen to meet the maker of my watch received late last year. The 1817 is a simple watch executed in a lovely style with hand engraved bridge and finely finished balance & escape wheel cocks. The base caliber is the venerable Unitas 6498, which like many an Independent Watchmaker, is used to create something quite special. 10 pieces each in RG, WG & YG movement colors will be made. This year he showed his next model, the Gellidus. Hand frosted dial and mainplate, again in the three colors of gold. I was intrigued to see in person his original wristwatch made under the Laine name, the Classic Chronograph. Two models were made, one with a blue dial and dark rhodiumed movement, the other with a dark grey dial and rose gold movement. The stunning manual wind caliber is based on the brilliant Valjoux column wheel chrono and is extensively modified and hand finished to a high degree with 38 new inhouse parts to improve the movement. In person these watches are even more stunning than the early pics I saw in 2017 prior to Basel 2017.
I then headed to what has become a bit of a Basel tradition in the past three years, Baselworld Thai dinner with the Independent watchmakers, friends & collectors. Several continents are represented and it is a very fun, relaxing dinner with much laughter to go around. The obligatory table shot reveals quite a collection of brilliant watches.