Basel 2009 Day 6-Maitres Du Temps

What is Maitres du Temps (MDT)? Where did they come from? Why?

 A collaboration of genius watchmakers, together with the mastermind of Steven Holtzman, the founder of MDT. Steven has been around the watch business for over 25 years, in recent times he was the US distributor for Roger Dubuis, amongst others. Recognizing in the early days (1999) the amazing watches being created by Roger Dubuis and Carlos Diaz in Geneva. Moving forward to present time, and having spent many months in Geneva and around the watchmaking towns in Switzerland, he has gained a good reputation and forged relationships with many of the worlds top watchmakers. The concept is simple, have a team of the world's finest watchmakers create an extra-ordinary, beautifully executed, timepiece. A synthesis of the watchmakers, to explore what might be possible, and deliver on that.

Chapter 1 is a mighty watch, not only in size and complications, but sheer presence. Including a tourbillon, retro-grade Date and retro-grade GMT functions, a mono-pusher chronograph and possibly one of the neatest complications to come along, rollers on the ends of the case, sporting a patented Moonphase at 12 O'clock and the Day of the week at 6 O'Clock. The design of the case is such that a window has been added into the case between the Day indicator and the tourbillon cage to reveal it's once a minute rotation. The number of individual sapphire crystals in this watch alone are quite something! Finished to a very high degree, the movement is staggering. This first watch of Maitres du Temps, the Chapter One was created by three Master Watchmakers, Roger Dubuis, Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin. Each in their own right fabulous watchmaking talent, when combined and asked to create something, this was their answer, and what an answer it is! Initially made in 18k WG or RG with a silver dial, this Basel trip, I was treated to seeing a new execution, Titanium  and rose gold. This piece sporting a black dial is superb.

The next watch, Chapter 2, was shown in Basel for the first time this year. I had the opportunity to have Peter Speake-Marin, talk me through it. This time the watchmaking talent was Roger Dubuis, Daniel Roth and Peter Speake-Marin. This offering from MDT is a little more sober than Chapter 1, both in looks and the wallet. Here a Triple Date self-winding watch with a sub second hand. What is fabulous is that the design of this movement encompasses an instantaneous change for both rollers, one the month the other the Day, together with the Grande Date. Peter filled me in on the design concept behind the 22K gold rotor shaped symbolically like a goblet.

Yes, Peter asked me to model this piece for him...18k RG with the black dial is my speed!

and again:

Now the back side showing that lovely rotor, note the two quick-set correctors on the underside of the case:

Figuratively drinking from the same goblet, these three Masters were inspired to create this, the second Chapter. What I know will come, more amazing timepieces from Maitres du Temps. Steven is a creative fellow, who knows superb watchmaking when he sees it. He has been compelled to create an innovative new exercise in watchmaking. "Masters and Their Craft-A lifelong pursuit of excellence"

Here's The WG Chapter 1 with black dial, another stunning watch. Still, I like the RG marginally better.

Now the Chapter 2, a WG execution with a copper/RG dial...

And finally the WG execution of Chapter 2 that I found stunning:

r

I'm eager to see Chapters 3 & 4 now! But for those we'll just have to wait and see...they will be interesting I'm sure.

Basel 2009 Day 5-Christian Klings

OK a sunny afternoon in Basel...off to see Christian Klings.

This is passion. I'm not sure where else I've seen such dedication to the art of watchmaking. Christian has that "mad scientist" look and I suspect possibly, the same approach to his creativity in the horological field. Designing and hand making unusual escapements, most normally found in clocks and pocketwatches, for discerning clients, who apparently wait, some times over a year for Christian to finish his extra-ordinary watches.

I had heard about Christian's work over the years, and remember reading about and more importantly seeing a picture of his Tourbillon No.7, an exquisite piece with a beautiful moonphase indicator at 3 o'clock. Classical elegance, design clarity and well balanced to encompass a free sprung Tourbillon movement, in a watch that to my mind is lovely. The guilloche dial surrounding the time, moonphase and power reserve indicator shows those features very well. So, this for me was interesting and when I saw Christian's vitrine at the AHCI stand in Basel, I knew I had to inquire further and meet this man. I had the fortune to be with Stephen McGonigle at the time, who is a master watchmaker, and one that doesn't suffer fools. When we were examining the Tourbillon Desmodromic's escapement, a single beat free balance escapement, Stephen was visibly impressed. Seeing that tourbillon cage whirr around every 10 seconds was mesmerizing to say the least. As Christian explained some of the more technical aspects to Stephen, my mind raced to keep up and comprehend what they were talking about. One fascinating piece of information was that originally it was a 7 second Tourbillon! Christian wasn't happy with the reliability and timekeeping, so "de-tuned" it down to 10 seconds! Since then I have spent time at Christian's website and am still studying it to get a better understanding of his level of creativity.

So this is a little video I took while at his AHCI stand, forgive my amateur camera and videographer skills!!!:

I have included here a picture of the Desmodromic Tourbillon, the style of guilloche on the silver dial is sublime:

Now to the back, the movement is simply elegant, traditional Saxon movement finishing:

The other watches Christian showed in his vitrine, were the Tourbillon No.8 and the Mosquito escapement watch. Unfortunately I did not get to photograph the Mosquito escapement watch, and as it is a sold piece, I may never get to picture it! Christian's work is highly technical and not for the faint of heart. They take time to create and reach a level of satisfaction that Christian is ultimately happy with. As he himself states, these timepieces are possibly of more interest to a scientist than a watch collector!

The No.8 Tourbillon is a Flying Tourbillon, cased in 18k YG. For those of you un-aware of the difference, the flying tourbillon escapement and cage are fixed to only one bridge, behind typically, and appears to float around it's own axis. The more traditional tourbillon has two bridges each with a bearing for the escapement and cage to pivot around.

This watch is quite lovely also:

Another view:

 And another....

Now to the back for the clean Saxon movement finishing:

One of the aspects that intrigues me most about Christian and his art, is that other than the synthetic sapphire crystals and the jewels that he purchases, he makes the rest himself, hairspring et al. This is quite remarkable and unusual. This fact, in and of itself is, is one of the reasons I find his work so compelling. This Tourbillon No.8 is available as I type this, so please contact me to discuss!

Visiting Christian's website will open your eyes further. www.ChristianKings.com

I hope to persuade Christian to come back out to CA, he did live here for almost a decade, in Marin Co. during the 70's and 80's,as I understand, and I'm sure we could have quite a gathering of the tribe!

Basel 2009 Day 4-Thomas Prescher

Where does one start with Thomas Prescher and his art form...perhaps the mighty Triple Axis Tourbillon, shown in Basel 2004 for the first time, as the anchor piece of the Trilogy. For me though, it was the previous year, when I was walking past his stand in the AHCI, where he was exhibiting as a Candidate, and his double axis pocketwatch grabbed my attention.

The pocketwatch with Double Axis Tourbillon escapement, image courtesy of T. Prescher:

I had never seen anything like it, yes tourbillons for sure, but this was prior to the likes of Greubel-Forsey and the other talented watchmakers, experimenting with multiple axis tourbillons. Thomas was happy to show his work to me, and I remember snapping a quick photo, thanking him and the dashing off to my next appointment. What a difference 5 years makes...his stand this year had in addition to the Single, Double & Triple Axis Tourbillons, many of the amazingly artistic Tempus Vivendi watches, together with several Sculture Una pieces. The Tempus Vivendi have a "bras en l'air" design element to them, a double retro-grade, hour & minute hands, that are limbs or elements of well known sculptural designs from around the world. The motifs are hand engraved by a real gem of a find, a young lady who works with Thomas in Twann. She was actually installed with her travelling bench at the AHCI stand this year, demonstrating some of her superb engraving skills. Only in her mid 20's she is sure to become one of the world class hand engravers. On a side note this is a rare skill and one that will be in demand for years to come, so anyone reading this wanting an almost guaranteed job for life, and willing to train and have enormous patience, really good hand engravers are in short supply!

Thomas's background like so many of his colleagues, is one of working for several of the large more corporate watchmaking houses, and having that urge to create something of his own, he took the path less travelled. Being a man who knows what he wants, he took charge of his destiny and after receiving 3 "No's" from other big companies, decided to build his design of the Triple Axis Tourbillon wristwatch with Constant Force. It was a big risk and one that has certainly put him on the map. Several executions have been made, mainly dial variations, a Regulator version being the latest.

Here is the original flying Triple Axis tourbillon in platinum, image courtesy of T. Prescher:

One story I love about this extra-ordinary watch, is regarding the Titanium polished tube that rotates with the Tourbillon cage, on the standard version. When Thomas went to ask several of his specialist suppliers if they could make this particular piece, all of them responded "No, sorry it cannot be done" Well, this only spurred him on, a challenge to Thomas. He figured it out himself, and when he was next talking with one of these specialists, they asked him if he had ever found anyone to help him? His answer was yes, i figured it out myself. "Well done" this fellow said, "how do you do it?" "Not telling" said Thomas!!!

I thought I'd add this little video I captured of a 18k RG flying Triple Axis Tourbillon with a regulator dial set up using the 3rd axis as the minute indicator, in motion:

Here is the Triple Axis Tourbillon from the back, image courtesy of T. Prescher:

They are quite something in the flesh. Now to the newest creation to emanate from Twann. The QP1, shown for the first time publically at Basel 2009, a well designed perpetual calendar, that uses the central axis to display the calendar with a small window at 6 o'clock for the leap year indicator. This is quite tricky to realise and makes for a clean, uncluttered perpetual calendar. Thomas had a prototype in YG with a lovely grey/silver dial; always cautious of having inferior images, I was provided with a disk of images for public distribution. I understand his viewpoint, but think that collectors still do like to see a little more raw images in the field. His other point is that being a prototype, the finishing isn't up to par, and he hates anyone to get a poor impression of his work! I can appreciate that viewpoint. The blued steel skeletal hands are quite dramatic and work well within the design. Bold applied gold roman numeral are a big plus for me too.

Here it is, image courtesy of T. Prescher:

and it's backside, with the new logo on the rotor, check out that hand engraved movement...image courtesy of T. Prescher:

The workshop in Twann has produced and will continue to produce watches of extra-ordinary quality, serious horological value and designs that resonate well with collectors of the unusual. Thomas' background also includes restoration of some old very important historical pieces. When he visited me in December, he showed me pictures and explained all about an original Breguet pocket watch that he was entrusted with, by a collector of important horological watches. That was a great treat for me. These are the types of pieces only seen in public at museums! Rarely can one see, in detail, some of the parts that are hidden by plates, bridges or dials. Thomas' impression of the quality was second to none, and knowing the access to the tools of the times, he is astounded by the quality and precision achieved.

Thomas Prescher's timepieces are horological art, and although not for everyone in terms of design styling, mechanically get a huge nod of approval from me. I will say this too, having had the enormous pleasure of staying with Thomas and his lovely family for a couple of days during the Basel fair, the sincerity, focus and passion he has for watchmaking is infectious. This is a man on a mission that I support.

Basel 2009 Day 4- HABRING²

My meeting with Maria and Richard Habring took place, like many industry professionals, in the lobby of the Ramada Hotel. Comfortable and well lit, we had 2 meetings, the first to discuss our business proposition, and the second to look at all the watches they had brought.

I knew from our first meeting 3 years ago that these were good people, who shared similar ideas about the watch world we both exist in. The watches that Maria and Richard create in the small town of Völkermarkt near Klagenfurt, Austria are well designed, very good value and will stand the test of time. They are the world's smallest manufactory of mechanical watches, a position they relish. It allows them to work with clients to develop custom pieces and keeps the exclusivity of a HABRING². Annually only a maximum of 50 timepieces will leave their atelier; very high QC being important, a bigger number of watches would naturally make that task difficult to impossible! Richard's former positions within several of the large watch companies, provided him with the background for his creative watchmaking to flourish. He loves a challenge, so when IWC asked him to develop and rugged and dependable split second chronograph, his canvas was the venerable Valjoux 7750. His adaptation is found in the now famous Dopple Chronograph & Portuguese Split-Second Chronograph. Tourbillons being his area of expertise, when IWC needed to complete their grand complication, the Il Destriero Scafusia, with a tourbillon escapement, Richard was given the task.

So Richard's first tourbillon for HABRING², he chose a solid base calibe, the ETA 6498, and went to work on this. Designed with Richard's years of experience, he wanted a rugged calibre that would stand the test of time, and will last many years, with regular servicing of course! One of his initial hand made Tourbillons has been running well for over 4 years, having been worn and tested by Dave B, the owner who had his Time Only HABRING² converted to a Tourbillon. The watch pictured below here, is one of the serially produced HABRING² Tourbillon pieces. I use the word serially almost tongue in cheek, as they are extremely limited in production. Richard is now happy with the design, and therefore has had the cages made for him to his exacting design specifications, in order to reduce the costs associated with hand making them! The two dimensional dial was a design contribution from Dave. I think it shows the watch off very well. A large balance wheel inside the cage is quite mesmerizing to watch.

Here is the HABRING² Tourbillon with silver dial with rose gold appliques:

Here the back of the Tourbillon in the most simple of finishes. Additional hand engraving is an option, for other finishes, just ask and if it is possible Richard & Maria will endeavor to create it!

So naturally, the HABRING² Tourbillon is the main stay of the complicated watch collection. This year several variations of the existing Automatic with Jumping seconds were shown to me, having had additional complications added. A quite good looking Triple Date Moonphase with several dial options. I received a black dial version at the end of last year, but was waiting to see the rose gold applique on silvered dial. This was a great watch. There is now a GMT version on the Jumping seconds sporting a 24hr chapter and hand. Also a WorldTime Jumping Second Automatic.

Here is the Triple Date Moonphase:

And here is the WorldTime Automatic Jumping Seconds, with Luminous Rhodiated Hands and applique markers:

The other much talked about piece is the COS, short for Crown Operated System, a chronograph that has only the standard crown. The chronograph functions of start, stop and reset are actuated by twisting the crown in one direction to start, twist again to stop and then the opposite way to reset the chrono hands to zero. The makes for a very clean looking watch that has I think a unique complication. The base canvas with which Richard works his magic is the Valgranges or AO7 calibre from ETA, that is essentially a larger diameter 7750. Similarly the AO6 movt. can be ordered, here essentially the automatic 7750 without the chronograph parts, this is what powers the HABRING² Automatic watches, with the addition of Richard's Jumping Seconds complication.

The COS is steel with blued appliques and a white lacquer dial:

And here with the grey dial in the stainless steel case:

This piece pictured above is polished steel, last year it was released in brushed Ti as a manual version also. A standard Automatic chrono is available with quite a wide variety of dial options.

This one has the blued hands and appliques on a cream dial:

We rounded off our meeting in good spirits, knowing our relationship was stronger than ever, and having a clear idea of how to proceed going forward. I'm always reminded when spending time with Maria & Richard, how high the value proposition is for the collector looking to get a well designed and created watch, by one of the great talents in Independent Watchmaking. Personal service is also an area they excel in, that one off design you've been thinking of having commissioned, can almost certainly be created with their expertise and help!

Basel 2009 Day 4-Bexei Watches

Aaron Becsei is one of those amazing talented fellows who just creates extra-ordinary horological art. His style is quite Baroque and will appeal to those that appreciate this, others may find his creations a bit too busy. Heavily hand engraved and looking like something from the 1800's, his watch and pocketwatches are simply brilliant. The tourbillon features in most of his work so far, other than Aaron's miniature Zappler pendule clock. I saw the pendule clock 2 years ago, together with the tourbillon #1, and was fascinated. The level of skill required to make these pieces, looked to me like one would have to spend 15-20 years honing one's ability, yet here was Aaron, who had to be in his mid 20's, a young man in the watchmaking world, creating fabulous pieces. I knew he had to be brilliant, and last year was the debut of his Primus, the triple axis Tourbillon wristwatch.

The Primus, cased in platinum, quite amazing:

Here is a close up of the Primus, showing the regulateur style dial, hours, minutes, seconds & power reserve:

This year I met Aaron again, and this time spent more time with him, talking about his work and photographing his watches. He also come from a watchmaking family and is following his father who was his original teacher. Restoration is a large part of Aaron's life too, by working on some of the old pieces from past, a young watchmaker can glean much about the art of watchmaking. I know Peter Speake-Marin credits much of his design sense from working in London's Piccadilly area and repairing and restoring great watches from the past. I suspect we'll be seeing quite a collection of extra-ordinary of work coming from Aaron in the future, I know he is working on a more simple wristwatch, not sure what complications it will include.

So to his other pieces, the Zappler pendule clock, quite mesmerizing to watch them flick back and forth at quite a rate! This clock is only the size of about a quarter, housed under a glass dome to keep dust and grime from getting into the movement:

Here it is glass dome removed, close up:

And here the mighty Tourbillon #2:

All in all, quite superb.

Basel 2009 Day 2-Sarpaneva

I was originally turned on to Stepan's work through Vianney Halter. As Stepan had at one time worked with Vianney in Ste. Croix, I was curious to find out more about this Independent Watchmaker from Finland. We had contact last year, and I was able to work with Stepan on a new K3 variant that a client asked for, with a red gold moon. Stepan was happy to create this watch for my client and a new relationship was born.

This Red Moon K3 is cased in steel with black Diamond Like Coating:

And here is the back side showing the 18k Gold Moon rotor:

His background like many of his contemporaries is one of learning and perfecting his craft in Switzerland, then returning home to his native country to create his form of horological micro-mechanical art. He comes from a family rich in artistic blood. His father is a well known jewelry artist in Finland. The designs Stepan has come up with are "Not for everyone" as he often says, they will resonate though with certain people.

The long sold out Supernova! This image courtesy of Stepan.

The Supernova, which he only made in 10 examples, is the watch that originally captured my attention, with it's skeletonised dial, off center seconds and moonphase. There was something fascinating about the design, and I knew I wanted to meet the creator one day. Well Basel 2009 provided that opportunity finally, and I was impressed by Stepan's low key demeanor and candid way. He is a consummate gentleman and while showing me his watches and chatting about the new gold Korona watches, he mentioned that a new iteration of the Supernova will be forthcoming. This was great news, as the original was not available, a chance to acquire something from Stepan, that will be quite amazing I'm sure.

Here is the new Gold Korona in red gold:

Here another shot:

The Korona has now 4 versions, with varying degrees of skeletal dials, adding dates, a moonphase and finally the new cases of the gold Korona. The Korona model is for most people what has been talked about and shown on various watch fora. The owners all seem quite passionate and very happy with their acquisition of one of Stepan's pieces. I can tell you this about Stepan's work, it will not leave you cold! I look forward to his future creations and contribution to the watch world.

Here is the Black Moon K3, a watch that I wasn't sure I'd like until I saw it in person.

And here together with the cufflinks that accompany the watch, a gift that Stepan gives to the few buyers of this very limited production watch. Serial numbers on watch and cufflinks match!

Basel 2009 Day 3-Speake-Marin

As I had heard about this project, and have been a willing participant in it, since Jan '07, Peter's wholly conceived Calibre SM2, was now cased in the finished product with dial. I was eager to see it in person. Off I dashed to the new TWF (The Watch Foundation) area across the road. Peter wasn't at the stand as he spent most mornings over in Hall 4 with Maiters Du Temps (more about this to follow!). His watches were though, I was shown the new models together with a few unique pieces and very limited series pieces. I had been graced with a visit from Peter in December, at which time I had ample time to examine and photograph the SM2, but it wasn't in a finished piece.

The watch that I was presented with was stunning, and the dial of the simple time only, quite elegant. The new case is in polished Ti, which is something that only very recently has been possible with the Piccadilly case. I should mention that Peter created an initial series of 20 pieces, sort of a subscription series, in order to help fund the development of the new movement. The so called "1in20" watches were able to have certain design elements incorporated by their owners. The case size is very close to 40mm, which differs from the production Marin-1 watch which will be cased in the standard 38mm and 42mm sizes. Gone is stainless steel, the non-precious metal case option will be solely polished Ti. Gold cased watches will follow in the near future. The images are of 1in20 pieces, both the time only polished Ti and a perpetual calendar in 18k white gold. These watches both sport genuine enamel dials, which if you follow my passion, are a real favourite of mine!

Here is the QP with a lovely cream enamel dial:

Some more of the simple time only piece:

Here is the back view showing the stunning new automatic calibre SM2, a tour de force in the watchmaking world, garnering high accolades from his contemporary Independent Watchmakers that I spoke with...

Basel 2009 Day 2-Urban Jürgensen

Although not technically an Independent Watchmaker, as this is an old Danish brand, named after the genius watchmaker Urban Jürgensen, who was based in Copenhagen. He made highly sort after marine chronometers and pocketwatches for discerning clients.

Today the company is owned by a gentleman by the name of Peter Baumberger, who is a perfectionist when it comes to his watches. He has a small group of watchmakers working for him to create these elegant special watches. In the past, he has relied on other suppliers to source the base movts. F. Piguet being one of them. This year in Basel where he was sharing with Vianney & others, he showed for the first time a new inhouse movement, wholly designed by Peter, that will be the cornerstone of the collection in the future. The first 2 pieces I saw were manual wind, but I'm told an automatic is on the horizon too.

I first met Peter two years ago, and was enchanted by his watches and passion for the business. At that time it didn't seem like a fit. I am now more open to this great brand, as I see them doing things right. creating real watches for the connoisseur.

So to the watches...first up is a platinum unique piece Minute Repeater Tourbillon, this time Claret's base canvas is used to show off the repeating mechanism on the dial side, with the tourbillon only being revealed on the back side, together with the hammers of the repeater.

Now the back, showing off the lovely tourbillon...

Now the new watch sporting Peter's new movement:

And now the movement, which by the way can be had with a traditional lever escapement or a detent chronometer escapement...

Possibly the most elegant watches on the market, with stunning guilloche dials and lovely hands, with a long history of superlative clocks and pocketwatches to back up the designs.

Urban Jürgensen today carries on that superlative watch and clock making of years gone by. Connaiseurs know this and will be very pleased to have these timepieces available.

Basel 2009 Day 1-Lang&Heyne

As you have probably figured out by now, my first stop once entering the fair, as it is called over in Basel, is in Hall 5 upstairs at the AHCI stand. This for me is where the truly creative geniuses in the world of horology reside, in order to show off their creations. Vianney, Marco, Thomas, Nicolas, Stepan and all the others have these 8 days to expand their world, and have collectors, enthusiasts and other people from watch world visit and get exposed what they have as their chosen path.

This year for the first time, several of the members of the AHCI, were exhibiting in a new tented area across from the Ramada Hotel under the collective banner, The Watch Factory or TWF. Here together with the likes of Max Busser, Fabrication de Montres Normandes, Alain Silberstein & Urwerk, both Beat Haldimann & Peter Speake-Marin exhibited. One great aspect of this area, was the ability to sit down in an albeit small, but comfortable booth in privacy. The light is also infinitely better than up in the AHCI area.

Back in Hall 5, the first stand I visited was Marco's where he and his team at Lang & Heyne in Dresden have created a totally new calibre housed in a 39.4mm case, the Konrad. The Cal.V is a new path for Marco and his team, combining an anteretrograde date(the hand jumps forward across the arc between 31 & 1) and a possible 1 second remontoir "Force constant", the new watch in person is stunning.

Here it is in white gold...

Also new is the bridge layout in this new calibre. In his previous 3 calibres, the use of a traditional 3/4 plate was implemented, here the trigonal main bridge anchors the main parts of the movement, whilst revealing much of the inner workings.

Now the back view in 18k rose gold:

Another feature on this watch is the hinged case-back, that one can have engraved with a personal touch. Marco tells me the watch is available with or without the remontoir, so for those collectors who don't want this little horological marvel and it's additional cost, the Konrad has options!

As Marco and his team are making almost all of the movement & case in Dresden, the annual production is still quite small. His watches will not be seen on every high street corner all over the world. Connoisseurs of his work will be happy to hear that only 30-40 watches are able to be created each year.