Never before has a wristwatch been conceived, designed and ultimately executed in such a manner. The first offering from the small Independent brand created by Christophe Claret & Thierry Oulevay, was the Orbital Tourbillon. Thierry Oulevay had recently and brilliantly masterminded the relaunch of the Bovet brand prior to selling it to Pascal Raffy, the current custodian. It was Oulevay who encouraged Claret to make this piece. This was one of those "Impossibilities", rather similar to Thomas Prescher's "Triple Axis Tourbillon". Many in the watchmaking world considered the Orbital Tourbillon concept, a non-starter.
Well that is a challenge readily taken up by the likes of Christophe Claret. He is a genius watchmaker, who has been "behind the scenes" for many years creating and executing many of the top complicated watches coming out of Switzerland. Initially happy to create in the background and allow all the glory to go to the watch brands he sub-contracted for, Claret finally wanted some recognition of his artistry. Technologically on a plane at the very top of what is horologically possible, this timepiece stands out as possibly his best feat yet!
I give you an Orbital Tourbillon....
I had the chance to get to know several of these extraordinary pieces of artistry over the past couple of weekends, and finally took some pictures. These creations from Jean Dunand are all unique, although sharing the same movement, the dial execution in each watch differs. This piece pictured has an amazing Dragon depicted in cloisonné enamel. This enamelling technique is when a tiny gold wire is soldered onto the base gold dial, in order to house different colored enamels, as in a checker board pattern for example. This allows the enameller to have bold differing colors right next to each other, as opposed to the colors blending during the firing process. here you can see with this dragon, the reds, yellowey greens and blacks, distinctively representing the scales of the dragon.
So what does makes this movement extra-ordinary? First of all, having the tourbillon and main spring barrel rotate once an hour, means that a traditional winding stem cannot be used. Hence the need for a winding "key' on the back of the watch. A series of wheels are used for winding the barrel, and setting the hands is done through the center pinion, again with an elaborate series of gears and wheels. Secondly as the dial rotates under the hands with the appearance of a floating "Flying tourbillon" the need for a totally new design construction in order for this to work. Thirdly, the indicator showing the power reserve, executed in a "Gas Gauge" or "Empty/Full" design, which if you think about it, had to be really tricky to sort out, as the mainspring barrel is constantly in motion!
Here's the power reserve "gas gauge"or E/F indicator, almost at "Full" shown on the 3 o'clock side of the watch case viewed through a curved sapphire window...
Imagine if you will trying to conceive of a new mechanism, conceptually and spatially. This is what Claret had to do, before he even went to the computer to figure out the design and details of this amazing movement. The whole of the top of the movement rotates once an hour, regulated carefully by the tourbillon escapement, while the lower part which houses the winding mechanism and the moonphase indicator. I must mention this wonderful blue enamelled 18k gold "Moonphase disk", hidden from the eyes during normal wear, it is revealed to the owner each day while the watch is being wound.
So we move on to the second watch from Jean Dunand, that I find fascinating, the mighty Shabaka. Rarely seen, as there are only a handful of these in existence, I was fortunate to have the opportunity to photograph this amazing piece...
Initially from the images I saw online, I was a bit suspect of this super complicated cathedral chiming minute repeater perpetual calendar moonphase watch, utilizing instantaneous changing barrels for the day, date and month indicators. "On paper" it seemed a bit "Flat". Now having had the chance to spend some time with a platinum version, I'm "On board". I'll certainly agree that it is not a design that will resonate with everyone, strong Art Deco elements are brought forth by the designers. The roller indicators again will not appeal to all. Having said this, mechanically it is brilliant, and that is where I find myself being drawn to his watch. My pictures I hope have done it some sort of justice...
A minute repeater is difficult to execute. Doing it very well, is at the pinnacle of the watchmaking art. Claret has created several extra-ordinary repeating watches for several of the larger manufactures over the years, so to see it encompassed within one the Jean Dunand designs is not surprising for me. The movement from the back resembles a very "Classic" Claret design, and unfortunately for those "gear heads" the perpetual calendar mechanism utilizing the rollers is all hidden under the dial! The finish is superb, with a circular Cotes de Geneve striping and that wonderful glow that one only gets from a hand polished & finished movement. A simple, yet rather difficult to read power reserve indicator is visible from the back, a cut away from the main barrel bridge. Notice too the "On/Off" switches either side of the crown, these allow the quick set corrector to operate. A clever safety mechanism built in to prevent the accidental pushing of the two big "Chrono pusher" looking correctors at 2 and 4 o'clock emerging from the case.
Jean Dunand, was himself an Art Deco designer from Switzerland, whom both Claret and Oulevay admire; they named their company in honor of him. I would imagine, he would be honored to have these two creating these extra-ordinary pieces of horological art in his name! This is the type of work that needs to be encouraged, the benefits of which will be appreciated by many, and for those lucky few able to afford such art, well done in your support.