Dressing for battle, I hopped onto the tram and made the 40 minute journey into Basel and the Messe, where the world's watch, gem & jewelry dealers convene for a week of exuberance and excess. Why, well 90% of their yearly sales orders are taken during this week! Independent retailers, chains and distributors vie for the latest and greatest products to sell on to their clients. The brands are only too happy to provide them with marketing fluff, promises of exclusivity and access to rare pieces, as long as one plays their game. This is the world I have no interest in, having played in it for almost 8 years at my former business. Once I started to work with Peter Speake-Marin in 2004, a paradigm shifted and subsequently my focus became more and more the Independent Watchmaking world. In 2009, I decided to exclusively work with whom I found to be most compelling, these micro mechanical horological artisans I know and love, many of whom have become dear friends.
Independent Watchmaking, as I often have said, is not for the faint of heart. It is the path less travelled and takes enormous guts to pursue. The rewards don't come easily and the audience is tiny, however if one can create a watch of style, beauty and horological merit, and then hand craft it, you might be onto something. Certain styles are more popular, but extreme levels of hand finishing are always appreciated, and if your watch communicates your passion, there is a buyer out there! This is also where I come in, being an advocate for these watchmakers and putting my money where my mouth is. Buying Independent Watchmakers work is a risk, especially when they are a no name watchmaker just starting out. It was a risk with Peter back in 2004, fortunately my gut instinct was right and my clients responded in a very positive way. However, the aspect of supporting these genius watchmakers is also quite a motivating factor for many clients.
So...the AHCI and connected Independent Watchmakers is where I choose to spend my resources and time in Basel. This is my report:
First port of call, Speake-Marin, where I found Peter to be in seemingly much better spirits than certainly last year, when I felt he was otherwise engaged. Realizing his business was in transformation last year into the brand Speake-Marin, it is no wonder he didn't give me the attention typically shown in previous years. However, this year it was back to good old Peter, excitedly showing me his latest creations from the workshop. A slightly changed approach, it would be safe to say of the overall sense of the brand’s focus these days. Some new products are great, others not so much. I'll focus more on what I liked...
The iconic Piccadilly in the original size of Peter's first wristwatch, 38mm here in 18K RG. The fired enamel dial really doesn't need the word "enamel", some prevailing viewpoint in Switzerland that I fully disagree with, says you must put words on an enamel dial to say it is! Oh well...otherwise a stunner. Now using a Vaucher based self-winding caliber of course with Peter's "topping tool" blued steel rotor. A compelling watch nonetheless.
The 38mm caseback.
In a similar vein, but with the addition of a tourbillon, the Magister Tourbillon in 38mm 18K RG. Enamel dial with an automatic caliber sporting a platinum weighted micro-rotor. The inspiration for the rotor shape comes from an old steam engine in the Science Museum in London. The Tourbillon beats at 21,600vph and has a 72 hour power reserve.
Another of my old favorite models, long since retired, was the Shimoda, fortunately the concept has been revived and I think improved upon, with the Velsheda, a single handed "Philosophers watch". I still maintain, this is where I'm trying to get to in life, where one doesn't have to know or be anywhere exactly to the minute!
It is now only going to be made in 42mm Ti Piccadilly case rather than the previous steel, but in addition, we now have an 18K RG option, with is rather lovely!
42mm Velsheda 18K RG.
The 42mm Ti Velsheda, no more steel 42mm Speake-Marins it appears.
The most popular model, the Serpent Calendar, now is found in a few dial options rather then the previous years offerings of white lacquer or silvered. The center section is now available with either a galvanic blue or black and on the RG version, a RG date chapter ring against the white background. Also, these dark dialed Serpent Calendar's have a high polished steel set of hands to gain contrast against the darker dials.
The two new Ti 42mm J Class Serpent Calendars.
The 18K RG Serpent Calendar with gold date chapter ring.
As is Peter's way, he likes to create extra-ordinary complicated watches with Tourbillon escapements. His initial Tourbillon wristwatch, the Vintage Tourbillon was an immediate classic, and in his Mark 2 version added the enamel dials. Since then he created the exquisite Renaissance Minute Repeater Tourbillon further showcasing his talent, and then the watch pictured above, the Magister Tourbillon, which is unlimited and part of the J Class collection. This year he revealed the Vertical Double Tourbillon with an enamel dial, power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock and the Day/Night indicator at 6 o'clock. A manual wind twin barreled watch that utilises the two tourbillon escapements with their own gear trains to average the timekeeping and gain the benefit of improved accuracy through a miniature limited-slip spring gearbox. This mechanism he calls a "équilibreur de marche" or rate equalizer links the two tourbillon regulators. Hand finished and beautifully designed, this huge watch is quite something to behold. A handful of pieces in red gold and white gold will be made.
The WG variant of the Vertical Double Tourbillon.
The back of the Vertical Double Tourbillon.
After this mind blower, there wasn't much else to see! Ordering a couple of new models, I chatted a little more with Peter before he was dragged off to another meeting. Outside in one of the showcases was a Piece Unique, created in collaboration with a couple of master craftsmen, a heavily engraved and chased Dragon watch. It featured the SM2 inhouse caliber which I'm happy to see being utilized. Created and sold as a special order, it was a pleasure to at least see it prior to it going off into a private collection.
More to come in due course...added daily I hope!