#Basel2015

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An honor to be invited to the AHCI 30th Anniversary dinner in Basel.

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I received a kind invitation to attend the AHCI 30th Anniversary dinner in Basel from Marc Jenni a couple of months prior to Basel. I happily responded in the positive, knowing that this was an event not to be missed. Given my support for the AHCI watchmakers and their chosen path, I eagerly anticipated this evening.

Arriving at the old restaurant right off the Marktplatz in the center of old town, I walked into a huge private dining room upstairs with four rows of tables feeding well over 100 people. Many familiar faces of the more dedicated watch press were in attendance together with the members of the AHCI. I think I was one of the very few retailers to attend. This tiny narrow field is definitely not for most people involved in the selling part of the watch business, as it takes real passion and an understanding with a true appreciation of what it takes to be an Independent Watchmaker. As a pioneer in this field in the USA, it was a great acknowledgement to be invited.

During the feast, a picture presentation of the members ran on a big screen, as a few members couldn't be present, it was a fun way to include them in the festivities. Seeing John McGonigle on the screen amused me very much, as he and his brother rank up there as some of my best friends in the business. Two of the most humble and brilliant watchmakers. 

Towards the end of the meal, several members made brief speeches. Svend Andersen, one of the co-founders spoke first, then his cohort Vincent Calabrese said a few words. Following up, was the poster boy for the AHCI and what it can do to help a young watchmaker starting out, Peter Speake-Marin. Peter was encouraged by the great Philippe Dufour to join back in 2001, when he was introduced by his friend Kees Englebarts. He subsequently was sponsored by Antoine Presuzio and Philippe Dufour, exhibiting with the AHCI in 2002 for the first time. My journey into the Independent Watchmaking world really started with Peter in 2003, I've written extensively about it previously...

http://www.independentintime.com/time-with-tim/2013/3/30/musings-on-independent-watchmaking-and-the-beginning-journey.html

These are some of the pieces I've had the pleasure of handling over the years.

I contacted him in October 2003 via email, and then in December had a 30minute telephone call with Daniela his business partner at the time. Culminating in an agreement to meet the following year in Basel 2004. That was the beginning of an eye opening path for me horologically!

Peter Speake-Marin talks after dinner.

The last haggard runners, waiting to speak with my friend Vianney Halter. Ludovico on the right in deep discussion.

So, to have Peter stand up and talk about how much the AHCI has meant to him and what it offers the new Independent Watchmaker was quite rousing and brought many emotions up for me. Journeying oftentimes in quite a personal way with many of these watchmakers is quite extra-ordinary, humbling and an honor. I feel very blessed to experience the journey on a first hand basis, and am now hoping my good friend and brilliant young American watchmaker from Oregon, Keaton Myrick, follows Peter and his colleagues footsteps and gains entry into this brilliant group. I'm pretty confident he'd have at least two sponsors!!!

This was a treat to see again, Peter Roberts, one of the watchmakers who taught P. Speake-Marin at Hackney technical college many moons ago, designed this beauty and finally has made a small series for collectors.

I took the last day in Basel, Sunday, fairly easily, without too many fixed appointments. Arriving into the fair around 2pm, having spent the morning walking in the hills outside Basel with my family hosts, I made the rounds with my friends and completed the necessary arrangements for my future business. I departed for London early Monday morning, for my flight across the "pond" to the West Coast.

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Day 3: Romain Gauthier & Ludovic Ballouard

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Heading to meet up with Romain Gauthier, I was excited to see what he had to share. Prior to Basel I was aware of his 10th Anniversary "Prestige HMS Ten" edition that is lovely and an update from the original. As many of you are aware, I'm a big fan of Romain's work. His designs are brilliant and with an engineers viewpoint to improving efficiency and timekeeping. The hand finishing that happens in his workshop is superlative. Philippe Dufour is a good friend of his, and has obviously given his input and expertise, as the resultant Romain Gauthier calibers are exquisitely hand finished.

Upon entering the booth, I was warmly greeted by Ana, Romain's dear wife before we sat down to business. First up were the 10th Anniversary models, ten pieces each in platinum, RG & WG. The blue dialed piece is the platinum, the silver dial for RG and a dramatic anthracite dial for WG. The platinum is killer, my choice of the three.

Platinum HMS Ten

The lovely HMS caliber in the platinum piece.

On the wrist, the RG Prestige HMS Ten, which is classic and elegant.

Great contrasting dark anthracite caliber with the RG case. All the elements of very fine classical hand finishing, Geneva stripes, black polish, perlage and beautiful anglage on the bridges and plates.

As Romain is apt to a little theatrics, he had covered the next watch with a black polishing cloth upon the suede tray. The previous watches were taken away and with a flick of the wrist he uncovered the Logical One, sitting alone on the tray. This was the WG model, now revealed for the first time. I love this watch, simply the best watch of Basel 2013. Initially, available only in platinum and RG in tiny editions of 20 pieces each, this model is the unlimited precious metal piece. The movement has a lovely contrasting frosted finish in rose gold for the plates and bridges. An enamel white dial finishes off the watch, so that the time is easily read. All in all, a superb watch, finished to the highest degree.

The WG Logical One.

As with many watchmakers, the temptation to succumb to the trend of "black" sport watches, was in evidence here. Maybe it's a Swiss thing, wanting to differentiate between dress watches and "Sportive" watches, even though it's the essentially the same watch. Casing a superlative caliber in titanium with a black ADLC coating, does make for a no dress watch. Romain released the Logical One in this garb. Not typically my speed, this watch will appeal to certain collectors, who wish to remain very much under the radar with a sport watch, that really is fantastically complicated and exquisitely hand finished. I think if I was to get a blackened Ti watch from Romain, I would prefer the HMS in Titanium. I have to say the combination of high polish Ti and brushed Ti in the case, makes for a good looking watch. I'll let you be the judge:

On the wrist, the Titanium Logical One

The strap is rather attractive with the red stitching!

The HMS Titanium, the red accents against the dark dials and on the tips of the hands, definitely sporty!

Next, I headed right over to the AHCI stand, a mere 15 yards down the aisle, to see a few friends. As this year is the 30th Anniversary of the founding of the AHCI, some heavy hitting early members were exhibiting. One of whom is quite humble and a brilliant watchmaker. Recently lauded by Harry Winston Fine Timepieces to create the Opus 13, Ludovic Ballouard was sitting enjoying an espresso when I accosted and greeted him. His English isn't brilliant, so we communicate in a combination of French and English. We manage! On his wrist is the prototype of the Opus XIII. Cased in platinum and featuring an ingenious design for telling time. Individual white tipped hands for every minute appear from the exterior ring with every 5 minute denoted by a red one. The Hour is a Jumping triangle that emerges from the center section in the hour of choice. There is a lot of moving parts and to reduce the friction, this caliber sports 242 jewels! Ludovic was wearing the prototype in somewhat protest, at least that is what I deduced. Since the Swatch Group acquired the Harry Winston company last year, the Opus program has come into question, and I suspect that Ludovic has been messed around. Swatch Group is not known for doing the right thing when it comes to business. They are all about the bottom line, and I personally know several folk who have worked for them in the US, and have experienced this first hand. So I'm afraid the Opus XIII may never come to fruition...in the meantime you can enjoy it here.

The great Ludovico inspecting my Keaton Myrick 1 in 30 series.

The HW Opus XIII, showing 9:56

Here it is showing 9:57. Once the watch gets to the top of the hour, all the minute markers flip out of sight, the hour triangle jumps to the next hour. In effect, the hour triangle flips around so that the tip faces in toward the center, while the next hour triangle flips 90' to point out towards the bezel.

The amazing caliber by Ludovico.

From here I wandered next door into the Grönefeld/Voutilainen/Sarpaneva/Loupe System stand to meet up with Stephen McGonigle. It was after 5 O'Clock, so the beer was flowing. Stephen was keen to check out Keaton's watch too.

Tim & Bart Grönefeld with Stephen McGonigle

Irish focus, Dutch fun!

Tim Grönefeld, Stephen (yes, those are his brows) McGonigle and yours truly.

After this I headed over with Stephen to find Peter Speake-Marin in Hall 1. Stephen was keen to meet with Peter and see his stand. They are old friends having worked alongside one another at a couple of firms many years ago prior to going independent in Switzerland.

Yes, Stephen is great fun and allways fairly irreverent. He enjoys life on his terms and is a great friend at this point in time. Being able to spend time with these guys after hours, cements the relationships. During the fair they are "On" and typically in overwhelm mode. Not so once the public heads out at 6pm.

Dinner that evening, was at a local Thai restaurant with collector friends and several watchmakers, plus a new friend from Scotland, the amazing Fiona Kruger, whose watches are getting a lot of press as of lately. She is an art major and designed the watch around the skull and Day of the Dead style wise. Comprised of several layers, the case and dial is to my knowledge unique and quite clever. Notice the Speake-Marin hands, Peter as a friend helped consult with Fiona on this project, and obviously lent his expertise and hands to the final result. Stepan Sarpaneva, the Grönefeld brothers and Kari Voutilainen were all in attendance. A fun evening ensued and I left with full stomach, aching more from laughing than the food consumed!

I got to try on Tim Grönefeld's steel Parallax Tourbillon, sublime!

Stepan and Tim Grönefeld

Bart Grönefeld and the "Orange Watch collector"

Fiona Krüger's Black Skull watch, the second tiny series of 12 pieces.

More to come...

Day 2: Basel's initial day, Speake-Marin & others...

Dressing for battle, I hopped onto the tram and made the 40 minute journey into Basel and the Messe, where the world's watch, gem & jewelry dealers convene for a week of exuberance and excess. Why, well 90% of their yearly sales orders are taken during this week! Independent retailers, chains and distributors vie for the latest and greatest products to sell on to their clients. The brands are only too happy to provide them with marketing fluff, promises of exclusivity and access to rare pieces, as long as one plays their game. This is the world I have no interest in, having played in it for almost 8 years at my former business. Once I started to work with Peter Speake-Marin in 2004, a paradigm shifted and subsequently my focus became more and more the Independent Watchmaking world. In 2009, I decided to exclusively work with whom I found to be most compelling, these micro mechanical horological artisans I know and love, many of whom have become dear friends.

Independent Watchmaking, as I often have said, is not for the faint of heart. It is the path less travelled and takes enormous guts to pursue. The rewards don't come easily and the audience is tiny, however if one can create a watch of style, beauty and horological merit, and then hand craft it, you might be onto something. Certain styles are more popular, but extreme levels of hand finishing are always appreciated, and if your watch communicates your passion, there is a buyer out there! This is also where I come in, being an advocate for these watchmakers and putting my money where my mouth is. Buying Independent Watchmakers work is a risk, especially when they are a no name watchmaker just starting out. It was a risk with Peter back in 2004, fortunately my gut instinct was right and my clients responded in a very positive way. However, the aspect of supporting these genius watchmakers is also quite a motivating factor for many clients.

So...the AHCI and connected Independent Watchmakers is where I choose to spend my resources and time in Basel. This is my report:

First port of call, Speake-Marin, where I found Peter to be in seemingly much better spirits than certainly last year, when I felt he was otherwise engaged. Realizing his business was in transformation last year into the brand Speake-Marin, it is no wonder he didn't give me the attention typically shown in previous years. However, this year it was back to good old Peter, excitedly showing me his latest creations from the workshop. A slightly changed approach, it would be safe to say of the overall sense of the brand’s focus these days. Some new products are great, others not so much. I'll focus more on what I liked...

The iconic Piccadilly in the original size of Peter's first wristwatch, 38mm here in 18K RG. The fired enamel dial really doesn't need the word "enamel", some prevailing viewpoint in Switzerland that I fully disagree with, says you must put words on an enamel dial to say it is! Oh well...otherwise a stunner. Now using a Vaucher based self-winding caliber of course with Peter's "topping tool" blued steel rotor. A compelling watch nonetheless.

The 38mm caseback.

In a similar vein, but with the addition of a tourbillon, the Magister Tourbillon in 38mm 18K RG. Enamel dial with an automatic caliber sporting a platinum weighted micro-rotor. The inspiration for the rotor shape comes from an old steam engine in the Science Museum in London. The Tourbillon beats at 21,600vph and has a 72 hour power reserve.

Another of my old favorite models, long since retired, was the Shimoda, fortunately the concept has been revived and I think improved upon, with the Velsheda, a single handed "Philosophers watch". I still maintain, this is where I'm trying to get to in life, where one doesn't have to know or be anywhere exactly to the minute!

It is now only going to be made in 42mm Ti Piccadilly case rather than the previous steel, but in addition, we now have an 18K RG option, with is rather lovely!

42mm Velsheda 18K RG.

The 42mm Ti Velsheda, no more steel 42mm Speake-Marins it appears.

The most popular model, the Serpent Calendar, now is found in a few dial options rather then the previous years offerings of white lacquer or silvered. The center section is now available with either a galvanic blue or black and on the RG version, a RG date chapter ring against the white background. Also, these dark dialed Serpent Calendar's have a high polished steel set of hands to gain contrast against the darker dials.

The two new Ti 42mm J Class Serpent Calendars.

The 18K RG Serpent Calendar with gold date chapter ring.

As is Peter's way, he likes to create extra-ordinary complicated watches with Tourbillon escapements. His initial Tourbillon wristwatch, the Vintage Tourbillon was an immediate classic, and in his Mark 2 version added the enamel dials. Since then he created the exquisite Renaissance Minute Repeater Tourbillon further showcasing his talent, and then the watch pictured above, the Magister Tourbillon, which is unlimited and part of the J Class collection. This year he revealed the Vertical Double Tourbillon with an enamel dial, power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock and the Day/Night indicator at 6 o'clock. A manual wind twin barreled watch that utilises the two tourbillon escapements with their own gear trains to average the timekeeping and gain the benefit of improved accuracy through a miniature limited-slip spring gearbox. This mechanism he calls a "équilibreur de marche" or rate equalizer links the two tourbillon regulators. Hand finished and beautifully designed, this huge watch is quite something to behold. A handful of pieces in red gold and white gold will be made.

The WG variant of the Vertical Double Tourbillon.

The back of the Vertical Double Tourbillon.

After this mind blower, there wasn't much else to see! Ordering a couple of new models, I chatted a little more with Peter before he was dragged off to another meeting. Outside in one of the showcases was a Piece Unique, created in collaboration with a couple of master craftsmen, a heavily engraved and chased Dragon watch. It featured the SM2 inhouse caliber which I'm happy to see being utilized. Created and sold as a special order, it was a pleasure to at least see it prior to it going off into a private collection.

More to come in due course...added daily I hope!