#Independent watchmaking

The latest American artisanal Independent Watchmaker breaks cover

Compelling is a word I do use often when it comes to independent watchmaking. The products and the people behind them both contribute to this. As one delves deeper, finding out who these amazing artisan watchmakers really are, what motivates them to create and why they produce these superb executions of micro-mechanical horological art, it grabs the heartstrings. 


Recently, I began a conversation with a fellow, who I’d followed for a year or so on social media, observing and noting his direction, talents and general demeanor. His claim to fame in the horology field was mostly with big brands, graduating quickly from what Watchmakers know as the most prestigious complication school in Switzerland, WOSTEP school in Neuchatel.  Then after owning a few private restoration service centers he went onto heading up Chopard complications atelier for North and South America, designing & teaching Chopard’s in-house complicated watchmaking courses to name a few. He also happens to be the former insane (in a good way!!!) lead guitarist and co-founding member of the multiple Grammy nominated heavy metal band Anthrax, so music, another extremely time sensitive exercise, is in his blood. 
He looked and sounded like the part, so more observation ensued. It was only in the past 3 months or so, did I realize that he had the chops for and had in fact created a new caliber! Excited to see this, I hungrily absorbed each new revelation and my admiration gained steam. Having followed and worked with several other Haute Horlogerie or high end watchmaking independent watchmakers here in the USA, I was intrigued and excited for what appeared to be a unique watchmaker doing what no one had done here in my adopted country, for around 100yrs. 

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A wholly designed new caliber, that is being made in the USA by one guy, an American named Dan Spitz. 

One can read up on his website about his childhood, which is where he got the horology bug, by being exposed to high end watches through his grandfather’s vintage watch and jewelry store in the Catskill Mountains of upstate NY. As an artist, he is compelled to do what he does at an extraordinary high level of passion. His skills have been honed over 40yrs and counts many of the current crop of artisan independent watchmakers as dear friends as Dan and most have all come out of the WOSTEP school in Neuchatel around the same time. He admires their skill, courage and passion to create what is not an easy life for themselves. There are many barriers in the traditional watch business, and being able to create his own caliber, from the ground up, as an original mechanical design in the US is a task not easily done, in fact, not since the pocket watch era has it been. Years of study and practice to hone his traditional watchmaking skills are only one part, additional years of school to learn how to program the Watchmaking specific CNC machine’s (he’s also built himself) together with the 3D CAD/CAM needed for producing small series of the worlds most precise parts, repeatedly, is a whole field of study unto itself. Dan has an impressive array of skills with which to practice and aim to perfect his craft.

Dan has spent years acquiring and restoring extremely rare precision Swiss ancient machines for the manufacture all by himself and spent the hours and money to acquire many traditional old school hand tools with which to deliver his craft. Unless one wants to only make a watch or two a year, at this high level of execution, with all the hand finishing that goes into it, a prototype CNC machine is required to produce the accuracy of parts necessary. This accuracy is what I’m told around -2 microns and +0 microns. It all takes time and for one person to master all these different disciplines is very, very rare. 

From my perspective, there are perhaps less than 25 people on the planet with the skillset Dan has. When one considers all the tasks a Master has to accomplish in order to get to this place currently and be able to produce a handmade watch of this quality by himself. That speaks volumes to me as an observer specifically of the Independent Watchmaking field for over 20 yrs now.

 I’m excited to announce that Dan & I have entered into an agreement whereby Independent in Time have agreed to represent his work here in the USA and aid in his sales by providing clients a person to talk to, answer questions and promote his work together with the other renowned Independent artisanal Watchmakers who I’ve been working with for years. I’m happy to support American Independent Watchmaking at this level and we look forward to expanding the scope of Dan’s work. In addition, I’m supporting (and I think we all should) him by helping to eventually bring in up to three USA traditionally trained watchmakers who want learn the production aspects of independence in America from a Master Watchmaker, and gain practical skills, while helping him produce the still tiny quantities he plans on. 

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His workshop with the myriad of tools and rare machines, will be available for use by these watchmakers “after hours” for their own projects and ultimately we want to create and help fund a scholarship like organization that aids these young and trained apprenticing watchmakers to gain the tools & equipment required to help USA independent watchmaking, and themselves get their micro mechanical art out there. Once they’ve gained the skills needed at Dan’s manufacture the plan is to help them further make sure there first timepieces get into the hands of collectors that would appreciate and support American Haute Horlogerie, at it’s highest form. Open source watchmaking is what he is about and Dan is keen to create a legacy for American watchmaking that he feels proud of with this next stage of his horological work.

 Let’s not forget Dan’s new Libre’ Excentrique oil-less escapement is part of a 4 year research and development partnership with some of the planets finest Watchmakers who develop for some of the big brands. An open source escapement that will be available to these young Watchmakers to use, for free! 

 I look forward to working with Dan for many years to come and helping him forge this long forgotten path for American Watchmaking.

 Cheers,

Tim

SalonQP 2014, a quick London trip.

A last minute business trip quickly came together last weekend, and within 4 days of booking tickets, I was flying to my old country. Leaving San Diego in the morning, with bright blue skies and the temperature heading into the low 80's as I boarded my plane, I was excited to finally make this relatively new watch show held at the quite famous Saatchi Gallery off The Kings Road, Chelsea in London.

Sunny San Diego airport.

Salon QP is in it's 5th year and is found in a rather ritzy location for a watch show. I had until now failed to justify to myself the time & money to attend: my timing though was impeccable for the trip and coincided perfectly with the SalonQP.

The Gatwick Express heads over the Thames a few minutes before arriving into Victoria.

Arriving into a cold and windy London Gatwick, I jumped aboard the "Gatwick Express" for Victoria and headed to the Saatchi Gallery. Upon arriving I headed upstairs into the galleries where many of my friends were exhibiting their wares. Of course, there were many familiar faces too from the "Watch business", writers, photographers, bloggers, investors and marketing folk! When one attends Basel for 14 years, a certain amount of "Watch business" people become familiar.

Alex & Marco from L&H in Dresden.

I'm happy to say that Marco Lang and his colleague Alex were in attendance showing off their new highly complicated anniversary watch, the Augustus with it's magnificent Caliber VII with 18K rose gold bridges, cocks and wheels! I saw the prototype in Basel, so we chatted about business in general and I was then off to my next stop. 

Stepan Sarpaneva is a brilliant watchmaker and designer of watches. He has been working on a Tourbillon for a few months, and having followed his progress via facebook, I was excited to see the running prototype at his stand. He also had brought along the enamel dialed K0 which I was interested to see. As a lover of enamel dials, this was intriguing and in person it didn't disappoint.

The K0 Tourbillon prototype Stepan has been working on for himself!

On the wrist, it has a great look and is very much a Sarpaneva!

The enamel dialed Moonphase beauty!

His use of the iconic grill over the top was in keeping with his design aesthetic. I pressed him to make a trip to the sunny climes of southern California, I know he'd enjoy it, particularly if it occurred during his colder season up North! Close by was my Hungarian friend Aaron Becsei, who showed a proto of his latest piece, the Dignitas, which I'd seen in CAD pics before, but nothing real. It was stunning! His watches have a rather old world styling, maybe a bit gothic and an irregular shape, so they are a bit of an acquired taste. In terms of workmanship, they are stunning and his hand finishing is superb. He also had the splendid Triple Axis tourbillon with him. Again, this piece is a technical tour de force and the cages are gorgeous. Very rarely a fan of regulator watches, this one I appreciate for it's craftsmanship and superb finishing, but style wise I find it misses the mark for me. Oh well, as they say, you can't please everyone all the time.

I had an appointment with my friend Richard from Pinion, who has been keen for us to find a working relationship. I want to help him, as I believe his commitment to English watchmaking, while freely admitting to using good Swiss calibers, is something worth supporting. I wasn't terribly excited about their first offering, the Axis Automatic, but upon seeing the Axis Pure, I was seeing a lovely watch.

The Pinion Pure cased in marine bronze at 42mm.

The dial work and case are lovely, with a reliable ETA 6498 beating inside, here is a watch that has style and good design. I grabbed a bronze piece, as I felt the high polish steel was a bit bright for me. The other watch I was eager to see was the Revival 1969 chrono, which features a new old stock Valjoux 7734 caliber never assembled from 1969 until now!

Pinion Revival 1969.

Again I loved the dial and being familiar with this caliber having owned a superb Habring2 chrono with it, I was excited to see what Rich and his team had done with it. Limited by how many NOS calibers they have, an edition of 100 pieces will be made, and at $6850 I think it represents quite a lovely hand wind chrono.

Please excuse the non optimum photo quality, this was an iphone pic!

I went over to see my slightly crazed French friend, Vianney and catch up with him after stopping and talking to Kari Voutilainen for 5 minutes. Kari had a couple of gems in his little showcase, I had to examine the exquisite tourbillon of course but the piece that really grabbed my focus was a gorgeous pale blue guilloche dialed Vingt-8 GMT. Kari's dials are getting quite adventurous in some cases, this was a bit of a departure from his usual classic look.

Kari's latest Vingt-8 GMT with the GMT dial at 6 o'clock.

He also showed me a Vingt-8 with striking orangey-red numerals and discs on his modified Breguet hands. Kari was very excited about the English market for his work, saying his English clients really were huge fans of his work, truly appreciating his style and craftsmanship, with several clients owning more than one of his pieces! To me it made perfect sense, with the natural appreciation for classical style and exquisite workmanship, I could imagine him finding many a happy client in England. Might be biased here! Anyway, as I got to Vianney's showcase, he was readying himself to face the British weather for a lunch. Kindly inviting me, I agreed to join him and another great watchmaker, Antoine Presuzio for a bite to eat on the Kings Road.

Antoine's latest project with his son, an oversized automatic with power reserve and mixed metal case & lugs. A bit too "bling" for my taste! They apparently have no problem selling them.

Antoine, yours truly and Vianney.

Funnily enough we ended up in a Japanese sushi restaurant in London. Wouldn't have been my first choice, but as I was a guest, it wasn't my place to decide! Of course we had a great time, and it was a pleasure getting to know Antoine, his son and wife. We returned under a British shower, without the benefit of an umbrella!  

I then wandered around taking the sights, many small brands were in attendance, so it was educational being exposed to them. My friend Johannes Jahnke, formally of Lang & Heyne, now reside with his growing family in Switzerland, where he develops calibers for the likes of Christopher Ward and Meistersinger. he showed me the C.W. Ward inhouse automatic he designed for them. It represents quite a value, and as they only sell through their own website, the consumer gets a lot of watch for the money. Of course the buying experience isn't what most of my clients wish for or expect, but it works for them. A different type of business for sure. Bidding him farewell, I bumped into the two genius brothers Grönefeld from Holland, fresh from their win in Geneva at the GPHG, they actually declined a beer!

The Parallax Tourbillon and it's creators, Bart & Tim.

Closer up, plain light.

Now some reflected light, to reveal the lovely blued steel hands.

Fortunately they were happy to chat and show me their superlative Parallax Tourbillon. Tim & Bart are two of the more fun and entertaining fellows in the Independent Watchmaking world, so spending time with them is allways good. One day I must make the trek over to their country and visit. On my way out, I stopped by Andreas Strehler's stand, where he was showing his latest creation, the semi-skeleton Papillon with power reserve on the back.

Front, again a poor pic, lighting wasn't great, and the iphone struggled!

Beautifully hand finished.

Last but not least, Max Busser's colleagues were showing off the latest MB&F Horological Machine. The HM6 is quite something and again touches on several themes, primarily space travel and sports a central tourbillon under a domed crystal. It also had a "Shield" that can be closed over the tourbillon to cover it, sort of like a cloak. The titanium case is "spaceship" in looks and feels amazing on the wrist. Pictures will reveal more than words...

Central flying 60 second tourbillon.

Domed bubbles reveal the hours and minutes similar to the HM3. The Tourbillon is partially "cloaked"

The tourbillon has been cloaked.

The back showing the MB&F green 950 platinum rotor on their caliber.

As I had an appointment with a client in Covent Garden for dinner and to deliver his new Speake-Marin, I had to depart prior to the evening cocktail event, which I suspected was going to be a fun time unfortunately. Such is life when you have to work for a living! No complaints though seriously, as I enjoyed a great seafood dinner with my new friend Graham and got to see his smile as he strapped on his new watch. Acquiring a watch by fellow Englishman, Peter Speake-Marin, was exciting and possibly way past time. Worth waiting for though! We finished up our meeting and I headed off to meet my old friend who I was staying with. The following day I headed over to the island of Jersey to deliver the other Speake-Marin watch. As my folks live there too, I got to spend a couple of days with them prior to returning to the sunny climes of San Diego via a rainy London!

I would encourage any of you in the UK or near by to attend the SalonQP event if possible as one can really spend time with some of the greatest watchmakers on the planet, see their watches in a relaxed and pleasant atmosphere without the crowds and hoards of watch press swarming around Baselworld. I'm only sorry I didn't get to attend the evening event, as that I suspect would be quite fun. They also have several lectures during each day of the show, which I imagine are full of fascinating and useful data. I think I might need to make this an annual trip!

Cheers,

Tim

Just found this short article I wrote 9 years ago about Speake-Marin.

Rereading this today, I still feel the same way about Independent Watchmaking as a whole, and am more compelled to help these guys get their message out and help collectors realize their genius....

 

"A viewpoint of micro-mechanical wrist art.

 

I'm going to pen a few words about Speake-Marin watches, in doing so, my challenge is to write more about the watch as an art piece and less about what can often be the rather tedious, the facts and figures regarding the number of jewels etc.

I’ll speak from experience as I have one of Peter’s superb Piccadilly’s, a red gold execution with a lovely porcelain enamel dial sporting those classical black roman numerals that I love.

 

Those of you who know me well, are aware of my penchant for genuine enamel dials, particularly with roman numerals. It has probably got something to do with growing up in England and seeing the grand-father clocks in various friends homes with their roman numeral faces. Wearing a watch likes this gives me great pleasure and as we all work very hard around here, a reminder that once in a while we should throw ourselves a bone. Now this goes without saying that our spouses/ or significant others probably ought to be taken care of first, but at the end of the day “All work and no play makes jack a dull boy”, so go ahead and treat yourself once in a while.

 

For me, the most impressive part about Peter is that he is not only a genius watchmaker, capable of creating superb complications, but almost more importantly, able to design an absolutely beautiful watch. I find this a rare quality in the horological world. One typically finds great designers and superb watchmakers collaborating to create lovely watches, so to find a single watchmaker and designer is very rare. Now before I get yelps about what is beautiful, as it is of course fairly subjective, remember this only my viewpoint! It puts Peter into an extremely small and exclusive club. I’m particularly thrilled to see a Brit in this club for obvious reasons.

 

So I invite you to take a look at Peter’s creations in person, come in and get a feel for what makes him tick. I was intrigued, I think you’ll be also.

Please call me with any questions about Peter or his splendid watches.

Cheers,

Tim"