More musings on the branded "watch business"...

I had a great meeting yesterday with a representative of a small Independent brand. The gentleman had sent me a letter prior to the meeting with the usual PR fluff about the latest manufacturing capabilities etc. etc. and that he'd reveal more in the meeting...
I had met the owner of the brand several years ago, when he'd made a trip to the US and stopped in Solana Beach.
I am familiar with the company, it's products and the general brand.
So, in walks a new chap, confident and comfortable in his role...after introductions, he starts in with the fairly typical company info. about what they are doing now and the latest products, that use some of the original founder's (although he is no longer at the bench nor designs anything to do with the current watches) special skills, combined with the modern manufacturing technology and craft of hand finishing and assembly of some 600 watches a year.
After telling him I choose to work with individual Independent Watchmakers, rather than brands he took it in stride and continued to attempt to persuade me that his company and ours could be a good fit, etc. etc. I like the guy, his passion, his knowledge and his presentation were all compelling, but ultimately I'm not interested in representing a marketed brand, which is what this truly is. Small & Independent, yes... good products, yes....passionate representative, yes....but a name acquired and a manufacturing business built in the Swiss tradition, not terribly interested I'm afraid.

Now if I were to open another store that focused on small Independent Brands, they would be in the running, together with some other Independent brands that I think offer good value and make very good products of original designs etc. etc.
This company's technical ability is impressive, and I was shown images of an upcoming unique complication being developed, a working prototype was shown in a video. Very cool!
There is a master Watchmaker who is the technical director of the brand, the mechanical genius creating these wonders, I just wish the focus was more on him rather than utilizing an old name and doing the typical Swiss watchmaking business, that is all too prevalent and less compelling to me, the more time spend in this world of mechanical watchmaking. Marketing and branding isn't for me.

Why write this, well it reminded me of "why" I do what I do and reminded me of the compelling reasons why the Independent Watchmakers make their watches. Understanding "Why" a watchmaker makes a specific watch is more compelling to me than "What" or "How". It's the fuzzy stuff, difficult to quantify, that I like to learn about and share with those willing to listen. In this day and age, there are plenty of watch brands to go around, arguably too many...finding true artisans of horology isn't common, but once discovered, well that is the watch arena where I want to exist.

Cheers to all, have a brilliant weekend,

Tim

2016 Summer thoughts...

Dear Friends,

Well the summer is here in spades in Solana Beach!

It is for me a moment to reflect a little, having just had my 49th birthday this week, entering my 50th year has given me pause to think. I made a major change to my life when I created Independent in Time, the business that reflected what I believed was the professional direction I felt compelled to follow, having been a fairly traditional big brand independent retailer since 2000 in the San Francisco Bay Area.

This past couple of weeks with the Brexit referendum in my country of birth, the financial, political & social turmoil that this has caused and the impending Independence Day celebration that my family & friends here in the USA celebrate vigorously, I'm taking a moment to look at where I'm at with regards the Independent Watchmaking world that I participate in professionally. How this reflects my wishes for Horology in general and Independent Watchmaking in the big wide world and my unwavering support for these artisanal watchmakers, whose life path it is to create arguably archaic micro mechanical works of horological art. Utilitarian items although Utopian in concept, don't excite the soul and give pleasure to life. Human beings I believe fervently need some form of artistry in their lives.

Oftentimes, and in fact for much of my professional career, I've followed my heart and gut feeling over what others have recommended. Financially, I suppose I've suffered somewhat, but at the end of the day I believe it is the correct decision for me. In doing my part to spread the word of Independent Watchmaking, I feel fortunate and honored to have this as my "daily work".

I'm excited to be able to offer these superb pieces of micro-mechanical horological art, representing each of their maker's blood, sweat and tears...and I thank you for the support of Independent Watchmaking,

Cheers,

Tim

Just found this short article I wrote 9 years ago about Speake-Marin.

Rereading this today, I still feel the same way about Independent Watchmaking as a whole, and am more compelled to help these guys get their message out and help collectors realize their genius....

"A viewpoint of micro-mechanical wrist art.

I'm going to pen a few words about Speake-Marin watches, in doing so, my challenge is to write more about the watch as an art piece and less about what can often be the rather tedious, the facts and figures regarding the number of jewels etc.

I’ll speak from experience as I have one of Peter’s superb Piccadilly’s, a red gold execution with a lovely porcelain enamel dial sporting those classical black roman numerals that I love.

Those of you who know me well, are aware of my penchant for genuine enamel dials, particularly with roman numerals. It has probably got something to do with growing up in England and seeing the grand-father clocks in various friends homes with their roman numeral faces. Wearing a watch likes this gives me great pleasure and as we all work very hard around here, a reminder that once in a while we should throw ourselves a bone. Now this goes without saying that our spouses/ or significant others probably ought to be taken care of first, but at the end of the day “All work and no play makes jack a dull boy”, so go ahead and treat yourself once in a while.

For me, the most impressive part about Peter is that he is not only a genius watchmaker, capable of creating superb complications, but almost more importantly, able to design an absolutely beautiful watch. I find this a rare quality in the horological world. One typically finds great designers and superb watchmakers collaborating to create lovely watches, so to find a single watchmaker and designer is very rare. Now before I get yelps about what is beautiful, as it is of course fairly subjective, remember this only my viewpoint! It puts Peter into an extremely small and exclusive club. I’m particularly thrilled to see a Brit in this club for obvious reasons.

So I invite you to take a look at Peter’s creations in person, come in and get a feel for what makes him tick. I was intrigued, I think you’ll be also.

Please call me with any questions about Peter or his splendid watches.

Cheers,

Tim"

Musings on Independent watchmaking and the beginning journey for me

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I thought I'd pen or rather type this little missive about why I have chosen to work in the Independent watchmaking end of the watch business, rather than the broader big brand market or the second hand dealer arena.

Yes, it is a more difficult (read less financially rewarding) way to operate professionally, but infinitely more rewarding as the business aspect of the watch world changes each year.

I saw the change coming almost ten years ago, with the opening in NYC of the first branded boutiques, and I certainly understand why the brands are doing this. As an independent watch store, this had some benefits and disadvantages for me Unfortunately the disadvantages outweighed the benefits rather significantly and it is why when setting up my store three years ago, I chose to only represent real Independent Watchmakers.

One of the reasons I do this, is that these relationships I develop with collectors over the months & years often turn to friendship. A group of like minded individuals reward me with their loyalty and support, as I continue to support the artisanal aspect of fine mechanical watchmaking by helping these Independent watchmakers who have chosen the path less travelled and certainly more difficult, within the watch business. I fully believe that people like to help others if they can, it is a human need on many levels and brings a level of happiness and contentment that other pastimes can rarely offer. It just feels good!

Seeing the joy in a collectors eyes when they first open up a new watch box to reveal that piece they acquired, especially when it often takes months to get sometimes even a year, is amazing and knowing it helped a watchmaker build his little business, is a large part of why I do what I do.

I know that the big brands create many lovely watches, some of which I personally own and would own more if money were no object, however there is that human connection with the watchmaker that cannot be duplicated with a big brand, and it is this aspect that I first found compelling 9 years ago when I started working with Peter Speake-Marin. Back then, we were both in quite different places professionally and personally. I was part of an existing fine jewelry store who were big brand authorized dealers for many great brands such as Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron-Constantin, Glashutte Original etc, etc., whose products I'm still fond of to this day, with quite a healthy annual turn over of several million dollars feeding an expanding business. Two children, married and working to build this business, I came across this fellow Peter, married, no kids, working with his wife and just getting going in his independent phase, having recently created the Watch Workshop to design and make watches under the Speake-Marin name. With an annual production of around 35 pieces, he wasn't making himself wealthy by a long shot. Probably just about covering his bills with a long road ahead, I was immediately taken by his humility and straightforwardness when discussing a potential business relationship over coffee in Basel that initial meeting.

Basel 2004 Peter & I discussing his creations at the AHCI stand.

His watches were stunning and I wanted to help promote him and sell his watches to our collector clients, who I was fairly sure would be as compelled with Peter and his watches as I was. Committing to buy 5 watches, 3 gold and 2 steel classic Piccadilly pieces, with 4 enamel dials and one hand frosted, I was going out on a bit of a limb professionally. It was a fairly significant chunk of our open to buy dollars being spent on a completely unknown then watchmaker, whose products we had to pay up front for before he would ship them over to California. No glossy catalogs, Facebook or a fantastic website like he has now with which to market and promote his amazing work. Just a few rudimentary photos I managed to snap in Basel, which are in this message for you to see, and my enthusiasm!

Basel 2004, his only model, the 38mm Piccadilly with three dial variants, enamel (top) Hand frosted solid 18K three layer dial (middle) & hand engraved solid 18K three layered dial (Bottom)

Intrigued to find out if I was correct, I talked about the watches we ordered that first year in 2004 for several months after Basel, to as many watch aficionados as I could. When the FedEx box arrived in September, we had several collectors, and you know who you are, eagerly awaiting in the store to see these first pieces from Peter. Three left that day to new homes within a couple of hours of the FedEx truck leaving!

I have to say I was rather excited about this, as one doesn't know if that "leap of faith" one takes is a good decision or not, until the market reacts. Suffice to say it propelled me on a path, that to this day I am thrilled to say is the one I'm staying on the watch world. Getting to know the watchmakers personally and finding out why they create their life's work is pretty compelling to me, after all there are many "things" one can spend money and resources on, and to support artisanal watchmaking at this level is very satisfying.

Basel 2004, the two enamel options, stylish arabic or the lovely elongated romans

On that note I'll end off, but before I say goodbye, please consider where you buy your next timepiece, remember the people who help you and have steered you well and most importantly, who value you as a client/friend and not just some sales target to make. There are still a few of us in this business that value the relationship over the dollar. I think you know where I stand.

Cheers,

Tim

Stephen McGonigle visits CA

I have known this genius of a watchmaker for 7 years now, having met him on that serendipitous visit to Dublin in July of 2006. See my article from that trip under the "Watchmaker & Workshop visits':

http://www.independentintime.com/watchmakerworkshop-visits/2009/5/27/ireland-land-of-guinness-and-true-genius-watchmaking-talent.html

Here we are now, delivering to my mind the most elegant and sublime Tourbillon made by anyone. The execution in rose gold with the darkened rhodium plating on the mainplate under the synthetic sapphire crystal dial, really works well together to create this:

Photo courtesy of McGonigles

Stephen, together with his brother John, have been creating their next generation of McGonigle watches, this model is a time only piece, skeletonised for the intitial variation. The Tuscar cased in white gold, with a sapphire crystal dial sits atop the open bridge work to reveal the stunningly hand finished german silver. This long sold out subscription series of 10 watches are close to being completed and will adorn the wrists a little later this year. In the meantime, here a couple of images of the prototype Stephen brought with him.

Notice the circular grain fine finish on the balance bridge, which is centered on the balance wheel bearing. A very large free sprung balance of John & Stephen's design, beating away at 18,000bph, it is a lovely caliber to observe.

This is the official picture of the serially produced One of Ten Tuscar.

The back revealing the now solid main plate, where previously in the proto's they had an opening.

As is the typical path of these Independent watchmakers, the desire to design and execute one's own caliber is a big goal, with many obstacles in the pathway. However, those that do persevere and realize their ambition, will be rewarded and acknowledged by a select few aficionados who recognize the blood, sweat and tears that go into this process. I find myself on many occasions spending a lot of time explaining to watch collectors, unaware of the real difference between an Independent watchmaker, Independent watch companies and big brands, the staggering differences in the process of bringing these seemingly similar products to market.

This semi-skeleton initial series of ten pieces cased in 18K WG is long sold out and being delivered slowly but surely. The Tuscar in person is so much more than the pictures and one can see and feel the efforts put into creating this lovely watch. The good news is that there will be another execution of this Tuscar, now in 18K RG with a darkened sapphire dial, that reveals the balance wheel beating at 18,000vph, called the Banu. This is to my mind actually a better looking watch, might have something to do with it having a RG case and a dark dial, which is one of my favourite combinations!

Here is the Banu, love the massive balance wheel free sprung with gold weights slowly oscillating. Held in place by the pincer claw balance cock. Pic courtesy of McGonigle Watches.

As is our way, I had a fun evening with Stephen in Solana Beach, where friends and collectors could really get to see why Stephen and his brother John, create what they do, touch and feel his proto Tuscar and see a local collector's superlative and to my mind, most lovely McGonigle Tourbillon cased in 18k RG.

Collector's Tourbillon in RG.

I was able to spend a fun day showing Stephen and Cathriona around some of the local sights. He is quite an avid nature watcher, so the seals and sea lions in La Jolla provided several hours of amusement:

In closing, I invite you to take a look at these truly stunning watches created by two of the world's most lovely fellows. Honorable and easy to work with, Stephen and John will I hope in years to come get the recognition they so deserve!

Cheers,

Tim

Peter Speake-Marin visits Solana Beach

Peter will be visiting Southern California towards the end of June, and will stop in at my store for a day & dinner on June 23rd.

Please let me know if you are interested in attending the dinner, seating is limited.

Basel approaches, let the games begin...

A great opportunity to meet many of the great living Indpendent Watchmakers. Elizabeth Doerr has authored what looks to be an amazing book on twelve superb watchmakers, of whom you will all be familiar.

There is a book signing at the Basel fair on Saturday & Sunday, so if any of you are attending, don't miss this...

Here is Elizabeth's info about it with more specifics:

Thank you for your interest in Twelve Faces of Time! Please note that Ralf Baumgarten and I will be doing two book signings with 11 of the watchmakers during Baselworld. This will take place as follows:

When: Saturday, March 20 and Sunday, March 21 at 14 h / 2:00 pm

Where: Messeplatz, directly in front of Hall 1.0, in the book hut run by Watchprint

Who: Elizabeth Doerr (author), Ralf Baumgarten (photographer), 11 of the watchmakers portrayed in the book: Philippe Dufour, Vianney Halter, Felix Baumgartner, Thomas Prescher, Volker Vyskocil, Paul Gerber, Beat Haldimann, Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, Kari Voutilainen, Roger Smith, and François-Paul Journe.

We would be most pleased if you could please announce this on your websites so that those attending Baselworld have the opportunity to participate in this unique opportunity. I am at your disposal should you have any questions whatsoever!

All my very best regards,

  Elizabeth Doerr
Freelance Journalist for Watches

Jeff Kingston's Inside Basel/Geneva, SF evening June 23rd

I know it is last minute, but in case you don't know about it or had forgotten to grab tickets, this a very enjoyable evening of like minded watch enthusiasts, all in one place being exposed to Jeff's sharp analysis of the watch industry as he sees it, and his always entertaining Basel & Geneva SIHH 2009 slide and now, video show.

I think there are still tickets available, check with Amy Bernstein at WatchTime, who organises the event,

http://www.watchtime.com/live-events/inside-baselsihh-2009/

The link above will give you all the details. It is held in the City Club, a private club with a gorgeous dining room, which we retire to after an hour & half of mingling and ogling watches brought by the co-sponsoring watch brands. Here Jeff gives his talk during dinner.

I look forward to seeing many of you at the event, it is always a great time and much to learn. One is also able to enjoy other watch fanatics, share favourite watches, speak to industry insiders and generally immerse onself in the watch world for an evening comfortably. As this is Jeff's hometown, we have the pleasure of the first event of several that take place around the country. What started out as a local WIS event in the mid-peninsula, has now grown to this behemoth! Given the expansion, it still though has those familiar faces from the original Chinese restaurant with the "nuclear Lemon Chicken" attending! Very much a local event, San Francisco as a location, it still retains it core N.Cal watch enthusiasts get-together atmosphere!

Highly recommended, again I hope to see many of you there.

Warm regards,

Tim