Basel approaches, let the games begin...

A great opportunity to meet many of the great living Indpendent Watchmakers. Elizabeth Doerr has authored what looks to be an amazing book on twelve superb watchmakers, of whom you will all be familiar.

There is a book signing at the Basel fair on Saturday & Sunday, so if any of you are attending, don't miss this...

Here is Elizabeth's info about it with more specifics:

Thank you for your interest in Twelve Faces of Time! Please note that Ralf Baumgarten and I will be doing two book signings with 11 of the watchmakers during Baselworld. This will take place as follows:

When: Saturday, March 20 and Sunday, March 21 at 14 h / 2:00 pm

Where: Messeplatz, directly in front of Hall 1.0, in the book hut run by Watchprint

Who: Elizabeth Doerr (author), Ralf Baumgarten (photographer), 11 of the watchmakers portrayed in the book: Philippe Dufour, Vianney Halter, Felix Baumgartner, Thomas Prescher, Volker Vyskocil, Paul Gerber, Beat Haldimann, Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, Kari Voutilainen, Roger Smith, and François-Paul Journe.

We would be most pleased if you could please announce this on your websites so that those attending Baselworld have the opportunity to participate in this unique opportunity. I am at your disposal should you have any questions whatsoever!

All my very best regards,

  Elizabeth Doerr
Freelance Journalist for Watches

Thomas Prescher does it again...The Mysterious Double Axis Tourbillon

Here is Thomas' official release of his latest micro mechanical art, quite a radical double axis tourbillon with date, moonphase and automatic to boot. The tourbillon cage in this piece appears to exist in mid air, suspended only by what I call the "little stalk"(yes, I know that's not a real horological term). In a manner like his other tourbillons. We discussed this new creation while we were visiting and I was sworn to secrecy. The computer images he showed me didn't really give a good idea of what the finished piece would look like. Well here it is...

A vision.

That is normally the beginning of a time sculpture manufactured by Thomas Prescher. Guided by the idea to improve the perfect visibility of the central elements of his multi Axis Tourbillon Thomas Prescher composed a new breathtaking piece of art.

A mysterious kinetic Sculpture

 Mysterious Automatic Double Axis Tourbillon

 

Only time, Tourbillon, calendar and oscillating weight are visible. The movement is completely hidden.

Place to hide the movement was found left and right in the case, hidden by the bezel. Because the space is very limited the parts of the movement had to be located on both sides.

Later, resting in a hammock the idea was born to create an automatic movement with horizontal swinging oscillating weight. To crown this exceptional piece of art, it was a logical decision to choose something special for the heart of this watch. The escapement with its beating balance has to be a flying Double Axis Tourbillon with constant force.

The idea to add a calendar to this creation came while observing some people entering a giant swing. They could move on the surface of the swing. Why not create an oscillating weight with integrated calendar indications and let the gravity take the calendar on the oscillating weight remains always horizontal.

This mysterious watch with its transparency led automatically to the wish to wear it from sides, front and back. With the calendar located on the flat side of the oscillating weight this indication is always facing upward. It can be read regardless of which side of the watch is up.

Respecting the aspects of harmony was an important point. Two crowns were used to keep the beauty of symmetry with. One crown is used for winding and the other for setting time and calendar. Both crowns build the main symmetry axis. Now it was necessary to build the optical balance between the oscillating weight on one side and the indication of time on the other side. For that reason a three dimensional moon was placed between the two barrels, indicating the hours and minutes.

Finally, placed on a turning axis, held by a carrying arm the carriage is rotating around itself. These two synchronized motions create a gyro scoping image immediately taking full attention.

A mesmerizing kinetic sculpture is born.

Excellent design, the finest materials, perfect processing, invaluable beauty for generations. Select a handcrafted timepiece, a unique work of art, luxury from the house of Thomas Prescher.

Independent watchmaker tour July 09

Check back here over the next 2 weeks as I will be uploading pictures and my commentary on this trip that I'm currently on. I'm typing this at 11.45pm in Ste. Croix, having spent an amazing afternoon at Vianney's workshop here. Yesterday and this morning was Neuchatel, at the Irish outpost of watchmaking in Switzerland!

Good times, fascinating stories to tell, tons of pictures, so stay tuned...

Cheers,

Tim

Jeff Kingston's Inside Basel/Geneva, SF evening June 23rd

I know it is last minute, but in case you don't know about it or had forgotten to grab tickets, this a very enjoyable evening of like minded watch enthusiasts, all in one place being exposed to Jeff's sharp analysis of the watch industry as he sees it, and his always entertaining Basel & Geneva SIHH 2009 slide and now, video show.

I think there are still tickets available, check with Amy Bernstein at WatchTime, who organises the event,

http://www.watchtime.com/live-events/inside-baselsihh-2009/

The link above will give you all the details. It is held in the City Club, a private club with a gorgeous dining room, which we retire to after an hour & half of mingling and ogling watches brought by the co-sponsoring watch brands. Here Jeff gives his talk during dinner.

I look forward to seeing many of you at the event, it is always a great time and much to learn. One is also able to enjoy other watch fanatics, share favourite watches, speak to industry insiders and generally immerse onself in the watch world for an evening comfortably. As this is Jeff's hometown, we have the pleasure of the first event of several that take place around the country. What started out as a local WIS event in the mid-peninsula, has now grown to this behemoth! Given the expansion, it still though has those familiar faces from the original Chinese restaurant with the "nuclear Lemon Chicken" attending! Very much a local event, San Francisco as a location, it still retains it core N.Cal watch enthusiasts get-together atmosphere!

Highly recommended, again I hope to see many of you there.

Warm regards,

Tim

Watch industry in flux...

As we enter a brave new world in the big wide world of watches, new ground is being broken at the same time personnel are being let go of in the Swiss watch industry, as the haemorrhaging of cash has NOT  been stemmed. I'm not on my high horse crowing "I told you so", however the economic shift that has occurred in the past 9 months, has accelerated the change that had to occur. Too many "mechanical" watches were being produced for the market to absorb, retailers were being forced to take more inventory; "You must have a good representation of the brand" & "Replenish what you've sold" was the mantra for the past 5-8 years. Well all that came home to roost, wonderful deals are available to those with cash as retailers and the watch companies are forced to "move" product, gone are the days of holding the line on "No discounting Patek or Rolex". I know of a retailer recently forced to take back a couple of Patek's sold at "No discount" because the client found them for considerably less money elsewhere.

What does this mean for the aficionado? How does it effect the collector?

Well for starters, great opportunities to acquire rare pieces are coming about. Many pieces that in good times would never be offered for sale, are coming out of the woodwork. Less competition for those few new "Art pieces", meaning the Dufours, Voutilainens, etc. will be available.

The new watches that are relatively common, meaning many have been made and more are on the way, will be available at big savings to the tune of 20-30% less than they were a year ago. What a bonanza for those with cash.

Another aspect is, that while many a collector I know sell or trade existing items to help afford a new piece, they will find the value of what they have to "trade-in" is also not going to be in the range they previously thought. This will come as a shock to many, who had banked on the value of second-hand pieces remaining strong in "desirable pieces", and the expectations will have to be re-adjusted if they are to continue playing in the fine watch world with this game plan. I think it is a great way to afford the new compelling pieces, one can only wear so many watches...Having said that, if you don't need to sell, don't. This is very much a buyers market, and like real estate or anything of value, buyers are in the driving seat when it comes to negotiating prices.

As Bob Dylan sang, "Times are a changing" and this will be seen more and more in the coming months as watch companies cut back production, retailers disappear, and collectors re-adjust their buying patterns. The value proposition and buying experience will by key and IMHO will separate those successful companies from those that will inevitably suffer and go the way of the Dodo. There is only so much money to go around, despite what the politicians all over the world do to "stimulate" the economies. I understand in Switzerland, the govt. under some sort of scheme, was "supporting" the watch industry by helping out companies with money to keep employees on at reduced working hours, un-employed Swiss watch industry workers are not good for the country's image!!! However this madness can only go on for so long before the money runs out and the reality of the bigger picture dawns. There are too many watches being produced for the market. This is why in recent days stories of 30-35% workforce cuts are beginning to filter out of Switzerland. Yesterday in speaking with watch industry colleagues, one number that stood out, 50% reduction is production capacity of one high end old traditional watch company that has been around a couple of hundred years!

I do see good times ahead for those watchmakers producing truly compelling watches of high quality, that cannot be considered commodity items, which is what the industry should be about rather than the way it seems to have gone these last few years in the over heated market place. A compelling reason should be made by each watchmaker/company as to why one should spend their hard earned money on their products rather than someone else's. I'm here to herald those Independent Watchmakers that don't have the budgets to splash images all over the place, but rather endow a collector with a timepiece of value with long lasting quality and a lifetime of enjoyment as the world of Independent Watchmaking is revealed over time!

Jean Dunand, Claret & Oulevay's Tour de Force!

Never before has a wristwatch been conceived, designed and ultimately executed in such a manner. The first offering from the small Independent brand created by Christophe Claret & Thierry Oulevay, was the Orbital Tourbillon. Thierry Oulevay had recently and brilliantly masterminded the relaunch of the Bovet brand prior to selling it to Pascal Raffy, the current custodian. It was Oulevay who encouraged Claret to make this piece. This was one of those "Impossibilities", rather similar to Thomas Prescher's "Triple Axis Tourbillon". Many in the watchmaking world considered the Orbital Tourbillon concept, a non-starter.

Well that is a challenge readily taken up by the likes of Christophe Claret. He is a genius watchmaker, who has been "behind the scenes" for many years creating and executing many of the top complicated watches coming out of Switzerland. Initially happy to create in the background and allow all the glory to go to the watch brands he sub-contracted for, Claret finally wanted some recognition of his artistry. Technologically on a plane at the very top of what is horologically possible, this timepiece stands out as possibly his best feat yet!

I give you an Orbital Tourbillon....

I had the chance to get to know several of these extraordinary pieces of artistry over the past couple of weekends, and finally took some pictures. These creations from Jean Dunand are all unique, although sharing the same movement, the dial execution in each watch differs. This piece pictured has an amazing Dragon depicted in cloisonné enamel. This enamelling technique is when a tiny gold wire is soldered onto the base gold dial, in order to house different colored enamels, as in a checker board pattern for example. This allows the enameller to have bold differing colors right next to each other, as opposed to the colors blending during the firing process. here you can see with this dragon, the reds, yellowey greens and blacks, distinctively representing the scales of the dragon.

So what does makes this movement extra-ordinary? First of all, having the tourbillon and main spring barrel rotate once an hour, means that a traditional winding stem cannot be used. Hence the need for a winding "key' on the back of the watch. A series of wheels are used for winding the barrel, and setting the hands is done through the center pinion, again with an elaborate series of gears and wheels. Secondly as the dial rotates under the hands with the appearance of a floating "Flying tourbillon" the need for a totally new design construction in order for this to work. Thirdly, the indicator showing the power reserve, executed in a "Gas Gauge" or "Empty/Full" design, which if you think about it, had to be really tricky to sort out, as the mainspring barrel is constantly in motion!

Here's the power reserve "gas gauge"or E/F indicator, almost at "Full" shown on the 3 o'clock side of the watch case viewed through a curved sapphire window...

Imagine if you will trying to conceive of a new mechanism, conceptually and spatially. This is what Claret had to do, before he even went to the computer to figure out the design and details of this amazing movement. The whole of the top of the movement rotates once an hour, regulated carefully by the tourbillon escapement, while the lower part which houses the winding mechanism and the moonphase indicator. I must mention this wonderful blue enamelled 18k gold "Moonphase disk", hidden from the eyes during normal wear, it is revealed to the owner each day while the watch is being wound.

So we move on to the second watch from Jean Dunand, that I find fascinating, the mighty Shabaka. Rarely seen, as there are only a handful of these in existence, I was fortunate to have the opportunity to photograph this amazing piece...

Initially from the images I saw online, I was a bit suspect of this super complicated cathedral chiming minute repeater perpetual calendar moonphase watch, utilizing instantaneous changing barrels for the day, date and month indicators. "On paper" it seemed a bit "Flat". Now having had the chance to spend some time with a platinum version, I'm "On board". I'll certainly agree that it is not a design that will resonate with everyone, strong Art Deco elements are brought forth by the designers. The roller indicators again will not appeal to all. Having said this, mechanically it is brilliant, and that is where I find myself being drawn to his watch. My pictures I hope have done it some sort of justice...

A minute repeater is difficult to execute. Doing it very well, is at the pinnacle of the watchmaking art. Claret has created several extra-ordinary repeating watches for several of the larger manufactures over the years, so to see it encompassed within one the Jean Dunand designs is not surprising for me. The movement from the back resembles a very "Classic" Claret design, and unfortunately for those "gear heads" the perpetual calendar mechanism utilizing the rollers is all hidden under the dial! The finish is superb, with a circular Cotes de Geneve striping and that wonderful glow that one only gets from a hand polished & finished movement. A simple, yet rather difficult to read power reserve indicator is visible from the back, a cut away from the main barrel bridge. Notice too the "On/Off" switches either side of the crown, these allow the quick set corrector to operate. A clever safety mechanism built in to prevent the accidental pushing of the two big "Chrono pusher" looking correctors at 2 and 4 o'clock emerging from the case.

Jean Dunand, was himself an Art Deco designer from Switzerland, whom both Claret and Oulevay admire; they named their company in honor of him. I would imagine, he would be honored to have these two creating these extra-ordinary pieces of horological art in his name! This is the type of work that needs to be encouraged, the benefits of which will be appreciated by many, and for those lucky few able to afford such art, well done in your support.

Independent Watchmaking, a compelling subject...

Independent watchmaking and the watchmakers who practice this art...

Why is it compelling? What is it that makes these precious few world class watchmakers’ hard work so interesting to watch collectors and aficionados of the horological art forms? As a short essay, I’ll make a case for why. As a student of horology for many years at this point, I have been exposed through those last 23 years to much the watchmaking world has to offer. I have bought and sold over $5million worth of timepieces, from $100 vintage pieces to well over $100k complicated pieces. So I know I have a perspective that allows me to comment from a position of experience on this subject. Having visited several of the larger manufactures, spent the past 8 years attending the Basel and SIHH trade fairs and interacted with hundreds of collectors, I offer the following:

Independent Watchmaking is akin to Enzo Ferrari starting his car business. He was obviously a passionate man who believed in what he was doing, and knew he could contribute to the advancement of motor car racing, with the amazing development of his engines and then the car as a whole.

Not “Another car analogy” you might say! Let me elaborate, there are certainly similarities, an engine/movement, The exterior design of a car/a watch case, the fit and finish of the car/finish on a watch & movement. I think you would agree that the engine/movement is almost certainly the most important part. Here is where Enzo excelled. Today’s Independent Watchmakers do the same, I submit. Whether or not an in-house movement has been realized by the watchmaker, it is there as an important goal. Many of these fellows have got there, and we are graced with several lovely, well built machines that will run for many years to come, with proper maintenance I should mention. How is it that the finished piece encapsulating the movement is so lovely? Here lies the genius of the Independent watchmaker, a brilliant “mechanic” on one hand, while having the aesthetic gene covered too, he is a “sculptor” or ‘designer’. This is rare to have both aptitudes in one creative person, usually it is either/or. Now Ferrari had those great Italian design houses, Pininfarina etc. etc. Well at the end of the day, Ferrari got to say yay or nay, he certainly had a sense of design and style, he was Italian after all!

One might say an Independent watchmaker is a rarer breed, “Doing it all” so to speak. He is not what the watch collectors are used to experiencing with the big brands. This is what makes this small horological field so compelling for me and as I travel around, for many other passionate watch collectors. It certainly is not for everyone, the cost of admission is high, but then it should be. These are rare pieces of art. This is not some sort of mass produced product that is fashionable currently, but rather, a timeless micro-mechanical art form, created by an artisan skilled in his/her field, well practiced and passionate about his/her chosen path. How often can one realize a personal relationship with a world class watchmaker? Here is another reason for going Independent.

Go with your gut instinct on this type of acquisition, don’t worry what others might say, buy what you like and get an understanding of why the particular watchmaker made this watch, what does his/her design say about him/her, etc. etc. That old saying comes to mind, “The mind once expanded never goes back”

This is the Independent Watchmaking path, take it, it will lead one into areas of great “eye opening” and expansion of he mind!

I'm happy to discuss this more on a personal level, my contact info is over on the right hand side of this, in bright blue!

Cheers,

Tim

Basel 2009 Day 6-Maitres Du Temps

What is Maitres du Temps (MDT)? Where did they come from? Why?

 A collaboration of genius watchmakers, together with the mastermind of Steven Holtzman, the founder of MDT. Steven has been around the watch business for over 25 years, in recent times he was the US distributor for Roger Dubuis, amongst others. Recognizing in the early days (1999) the amazing watches being created by Roger Dubuis and Carlos Diaz in Geneva. Moving forward to present time, and having spent many months in Geneva and around the watchmaking towns in Switzerland, he has gained a good reputation and forged relationships with many of the worlds top watchmakers. The concept is simple, have a team of the world's finest watchmakers create an extra-ordinary, beautifully executed, timepiece. A synthesis of the watchmakers, to explore what might be possible, and deliver on that.

Chapter 1 is a mighty watch, not only in size and complications, but sheer presence. Including a tourbillon, retro-grade Date and retro-grade GMT functions, a mono-pusher chronograph and possibly one of the neatest complications to come along, rollers on the ends of the case, sporting a patented Moonphase at 12 O'clock and the Day of the week at 6 O'Clock. The design of the case is such that a window has been added into the case between the Day indicator and the tourbillon cage to reveal it's once a minute rotation. The number of individual sapphire crystals in this watch alone are quite something! Finished to a very high degree, the movement is staggering. This first watch of Maitres du Temps, the Chapter One was created by three Master Watchmakers, Roger Dubuis, Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin. Each in their own right fabulous watchmaking talent, when combined and asked to create something, this was their answer, and what an answer it is! Initially made in 18k WG or RG with a silver dial, this Basel trip, I was treated to seeing a new execution, Titanium  and rose gold. This piece sporting a black dial is superb.

The next watch, Chapter 2, was shown in Basel for the first time this year. I had the opportunity to have Peter Speake-Marin, talk me through it. This time the watchmaking talent was Roger Dubuis, Daniel Roth and Peter Speake-Marin. This offering from MDT is a little more sober than Chapter 1, both in looks and the wallet. Here a Triple Date self-winding watch with a sub second hand. What is fabulous is that the design of this movement encompasses an instantaneous change for both rollers, one the month the other the Day, together with the Grande Date. Peter filled me in on the design concept behind the 22K gold rotor shaped symbolically like a goblet.

Yes, Peter asked me to model this piece for him...18k RG with the black dial is my speed!

and again:

Now the back side showing that lovely rotor, note the two quick-set correctors on the underside of the case:

Figuratively drinking from the same goblet, these three Masters were inspired to create this, the second Chapter. What I know will come, more amazing timepieces from Maitres du Temps. Steven is a creative fellow, who knows superb watchmaking when he sees it. He has been compelled to create an innovative new exercise in watchmaking. "Masters and Their Craft-A lifelong pursuit of excellence"

Here's The WG Chapter 1 with black dial, another stunning watch. Still, I like the RG marginally better.

Now the Chapter 2, a WG execution with a copper/RG dial...

And finally the WG execution of Chapter 2 that I found stunning:

r

I'm eager to see Chapters 3 & 4 now! But for those we'll just have to wait and see...they will be interesting I'm sure.